Lover's Leap: California's Moderate Mecca

Having just returned from a trip with friend Ivo Kusanovich to Lover's Leap in the Sierra near South Lake Tahoe, I can declare with certainty that it is the most stacked crag in the state for moderate multi-pitch routes.  I say this because you can hardly walk 50 feet along the base before arriving at yet another classic 5.6-5.9 multipitch route with comfortable belay ledges and a casual walk-off through a pine forest.  Classic is not just an exaggeration either; Traveler's Buttress is listed in Steck and Roper's 50 Classic Climbs of North America.

With Ivo I got to enjoy such classics as the Line, Haystack, Traveler's Buttress, Hospital Corner, the Groove and Surrealistic Pillar, all of which would be 5 star area classics any where else.  As it is, they are 5 star classics right along side one another!  Not bad for a quick little trip! 

The Gobbler, a Black Velvet Canyon Classic

Last month I climbed a sweet route called the Gobbler (III 5.10) on the Black Velvet Wall in Red Rock, NV.  The route is a direct start to Dream of Wild Turkeys, but is also a worthwhile objective on its own.  Superb face climbing engages the mind, and a weird and tricky chimney engages the abs, and knees.  
A climber named Kira took these photos from the belays on Dream of Wild Turkeys and just sent them on.  Enjoy!

Spring Corn is Here!

Spring is definitely here, and with the season's change comes all of the toys that have been stowed away most of the winter- mountain bikes, climbing racks and fishing rods are all getting dusted off, but the spring skiing is really going off right now.  The Tioga Road just opened up to the entrance station into Tuolumne Meadows, which makes for incredible access to a number of classic moderate corn snow decents.  Today I hopped in the truck to see how the snowpack is looking up there and had a great day making turns down False White Mountain and the ridge of Gaylor Peak.  Things are melting out fast though, so it might only be a couple more weeks before the skis get put in the closet...

ryan.

Needles Climbing Guides

It is very cool to announce that Sierra Mountain Center is now the only permitted guiding service allowed to guide trips in the Needles area of the Southern Sierra!  The Needles are an incredible place to climb- with a rich history and a very unique energy.  The classic climbs such as Igor Unchained, Airy Interlude and White Punks on Dope are known the world over for their outstanding quality and aesthetic.

Sierra Mountain Center will be running several climbing camps in the Needles this spring and fall, so get in touch and come climb with us!

Needles Guiding Service

Ryan

Whitney in Winter

Last month I climbed Mt. Whitney via the mountaineers route with two cool and motivated dudes, Kuan and Drew.  The snow was firm, the nights were cold, and the packs were definitely heavier than during summertime ascents, but those guys were really stoked on being out there and pushed through to summit in blistering cold winds.
Kuan sent me a huge folder with all of his pics so I will share some of them here with you and let the pictures tell the story.

Ryan

March Madness in the Sierra Nevada!

Spring has sprung, Easter is upon us, and snow is beginning to fall again in the mountains.  Just when we thought that summer had landed for good, April is looking to be unsettled and wet.  Just how wet is yet to be seen, but this could be just the thing our snow pack needs to get us skiing all the way through May, although rock climbing is shorts was kind of nice for the mast couple months!

The past month and a half has been pretty busy at work, from ice climbing to ski touring to rock climbing, a Mt. Whitney summit and more.  

Patricia makes her way to the top of Mammoth Crest

Resting between sage and snow on our way to Old Man's Bowl

Patricia makes nice turns in difficult snow in the Tele Bowls

Jay makes quick work of the couloir leading to Nevahbe Ridge, Mt. Morgan

That is one long ridge!

Summit of Nevahbe Ridge.

With any luck we will be able to still take off on our intended Trans-Sierra Ski tour from Mammoth over to Yosemite Valley, but we are making contingency plans of warm weather rock climbing if the weather looks to questionable to ski into the backcountry for 7 or 8 days, so that will most likely be the subject of the next blog entry...

Over and out- Ryan